As women, when we think of cut and color, many of our minds go to the next time we will see our hairstylists to cover our roots or get highlights to brighten around our face. But when today’s independent jewelry designers think of these words, they are envisioning the combination of exclusive shapes and the re-emergence of classic cuts with bold, playful and joyously colored gemstones. These are the type of looks we will want to wear as we move towards happier times, dressing up again, and jewelry that evokes a cool understated glamour and the versatility to accommodate our new lifestyles.

Here are three independent designers who have mastered the art of the new color forms in jewelry.

Emily P. Wheeler/Emily P. Wheeler

Wheeler’s new collection is named “Dress Up” based on a more cheerful mood a nod to the childhood game of playing with different outfits and pretending you are going out to different fascinating or opulent places. “But I also love creating pieces that are somewhat kitschy, lighthearted and whimsical—that are still aspirational but never take themselves too seriously,” says Wheeler. “They are pieces that have attitude and style and elevate the jewelry you would want to wear every day.” Wheeler features kite shapes for her “Twinkle” pieces which were all custom cut from different shaped rough stones. She outlines the pieces with enamel to highlight, complement or contrast the gemstones. Trillions, baguettes, and cushion cut shapes are also part of the collection and in certain silhouettes in earrings and pendants are mixed together for a mosaic like effect. As for color of the stones, Wheeler says ,”spinel was an obvious material for this collection as it covers the pink, purple, and gray in the color palette.” Different shades of tourmaline, deep citrine, aquamarine, and a host of other gemstones are featured throughout this vivacious collection.

Emily P. Wheeler’s Tiered Necklace in 18K yellow and white gold with emerald, diamond, and turquoise.

Emily P. Wheeler’s Unicorn Earrings in 18K rose gold with spinel and white enamel.

Emily P. Wheeler’s Twinkle Studs in 18K yellow gold with peridot, diamonds, and blue-green enamel

Emily P. Wheeler’s Twinkle Necklace in 18K rose gold with aquamarine, diamonds, and pink enamel .

Jennifer DeMoro/Jennifer DeMoro

The laid-back fashion, arresting artwork, and the cool beach-y lifestyle of the 1970s inspires Jennifer DeMoro’s new collection which also revolves around the beauty of the sunsets on the West Coast. “As a Southern California designer, who has spent most of my life here, I am naturally drawn to the magic and vibrant colors of the sun setting over the ocean and feature this throughout my collection.” She continues, “I try to bring in the nostalgia of the ‘70s when self-expression reigned like it does today.” To achieve this, she works with specialty cut stones in an unapologetic mix of bold contrasting colors and clean distinctive geometric shapes. Her designs offer a bohemian glamour and radiate California cool. Additionally, DeMoro chose the sun as the newest inspiration for the collection, she explains, “It represents the vital force that drives us to seek our true selves and is the essence of how we shine out in the world.” DeMoro works with a range of fancy-colored sapphires, rubies, garnets, spinels, emeralds and amethysts, and shapes that include baguettes, princess , round and marquise cut stones.”

Jennifer DeMoro’s Sundown Swing Earrings with hand cut pink sapphires, orange sapphires, garnets, amethysts, blue topaz, emeralds.

Jennifer DeMoro’s 14K gold Solara Spin Pendant is creatively designed with mix of colored gemstones down the spine and surrounded by circles of delicate gold wire-all which move and rotate. Stones include orange sapphire, garnet, pink sapphire, citrine light amethyst, emerald , blue Topaz and dark amethyst.

Jennifer DeMoro’s Chroma Illusion Swivel Ring with four baguettes of blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, and pink sapphire, all in 14K gold.

Jennifer DeMoro’s 14K gold Sundown Band with blue topaz, emerald, amethyst, orange sapphire, pink sapphire, garnet and citrine.

Ananya Malhotra/ Ananya

Inspired by her Indian heritage, her love and fascination of colored gemstones, and their meaning and healing properties, Ananya Malhotra’s newest collection “Chakra” was created to bring beauty, significance and symbolism into the wearer’s life. The Chakra collection is not your traditional beaded collection. Instead, Malhotra has elevated her belief in the energy of gemstones to create an imaginative take on tennis bracelets, hoop and stud earrings. The bracelets are pared down and geometric in styling with a bar closure of baguette gems with two exclusively cut gemstone barrels at each end of the bar. The stones that comprise the bracelet are princess cut and can range from a rainbow of exuberant colors to a more subtle ombre mix. “My lucky gemstone is emerald, and I wear one every day; it protects and guides me, “ says Malhotra. Therefore, she understands women being drawn to the stones that are most powerful for them and will customize all the gems in each bracelet. The earrings styles play off of the bracelets and are also uniquely designed to feel ultra-modern while also imbued with different qualities. As for the bracelets which are hitting a responsive chord with jewelry enthusiasts, Molhotra says, “They are high style, wearable and stackable and if you choose your own gems, they will help to balance your chakras. What more could you want from a piece of jewelry?”

Ananya’s Rainbow Chakra bracelet in 18K rose gold with multi-colored sapphires and white diamonds.

Ananya’s Chakra Ombre 18K rose gold ruby bracelet with diamonds. (Front)

Ananya’s Chakra Ombre 18K rose gold ruby bracelet with diamonds. (back)

Ananya’s Chakra Bar Ear Studs in 18K White Gold with princess cut Tanzanite and Swiss blue cabochon cut topaz and white diamonds. (Sneak preview as these will be launching soon- so keep an eye out!)