One day there will be a rich documentary about the making of Anguilla as a tourist destination. How, after all, did a tiny, flat shrub of an island where country-wide electricity did not exist until the 1980s become the British St. Barts—a standard-bearer for barefoot chic and the poster-child for low-volume, high-cost tourism? Malliouhana, Auberge Resorts Collection, had a lot to do with it. The luxe hotel was among the first to open on the island in the 1980s, perfectly perched on a bluff atop the white sand beaches of Meads Bay. It set the bar high, and the hotels and villas that followed lived up to it, transforming Anguilla into an “it” destination known for being stunningly fabulous yet never, ever pretentious—an island that boasts Michelin-starred chefs but also one of the best reggae festivals in the region (learn more about Moonsplash here).
For Malliouhana to embark on a makeover, as it did just before the pandemic, is thus risky business: The property is a slice of history. Thankfully, it did the job right. Here are four reasons why the new-and-improved Malliouhana, Auberge Resorts Collection, is well worth a visit this winter season.
What’s Old is New… But Still Old Part old Hollywood, part Mediterranean chic, Malliouhana epitomizes retro glam—flawlessly. 63 rooms and suites relish pops of color and four-poster beds; the majestic infinity pool boasts elegant cabanas; 17 new suites brilliantly uphold the gorgeous Art Deco aesthetic. Kudos, though, for always keeping it local: Whether it’s the 60s-era reggae playing in the lobby, the local jar of salt given as a departure gift (accompanied by a cocktail recipe), or the jerk nuts and bush tea left in my room as goodnight snacks, Malliouhana may tap into foreign style but like other fabulous icons in this same genre—like Jamaica Inn and GoldenEye—it still says “Caribbean” at every turn.
Leon’s at Mead’s Bay When it comes to food at Malliouhana, there is a legacy to uphold; Anguilla’s first fine-dining venue was here, a French restaurant run by three-Michelin-star chef Joseph Rostang—which itself fostered a long line of local chefs who now helm esteemed eateries all over the island. Celeste, Malliouhana’s signature open-air restaurant, keeps this culinary legacy alive and well: dinner boasts Anguillian lobster bisque, red snapper with tamarind glaze and sweet potato dumplings, conch curry with coconut dumplings and a desert of local Pyrat Rum Baba with papaya ice cream and crystallized lime. The breakfast menu is wonderfully local, serving up a divine lobster curry coconut bowl and saltfish with johnny cakes alongside coconut milk-dipped french toast and cajun shrimp huevos rancheros.
But the real culinary addition to Malliouhana is Leon’s, a beach bar and restaurant that’s as gorgeous to look at as it is to order from. As if the cerulean stretch of Mead’s Bay beach wasn’t bright and beautiful enough, pop! come the bright yellow lounge chairs and Palm Springs-style Leon’s sign. There’s volleyball and sticky ball, reggae music playing, a pool table—and, of course, delectable eats: ceviche, sushi, soft-shell crab Johnny Cake burgers, specialty rum punches, homemade ice cream and “rum”-sicles.
Turtle Cove So why would one ever want to leave Leon’s and Mead’s Beach? Because sometimes you want an entire beach to yourself. That beach is Turtle Cove, which looks so unreal you won’t believe it’s real, and you’ll forget there’s a world beyond these stunning shores. Malliouhana smartly situated its new suites here, tucked away from everything—the perfect retreat.
Cultural Calendar Persistently grounded in things local, Malliouhana has an events calendar that pays consistent homage to Anguilla and the broader Caribbean. There’s Malliouhana Fest, part of Anguilla Culture and Arts festival, which features shows by local visual artists, a storytelling under the stars event, and powerful conversations about gender and identity. As part of Auberge Resorts Collection’s Taste of Auberge, the hotel’s year-long Flavors of Malliouhana program brings renowned chefs to the property for residencies that celebrate the exciting possibilities of local cuisine. This summer St. Lucia-born, James Beard award-winning restaurateur and chef Nina Compton settled in Anguilla for a month of culinary adventures.
IF YOU GO The only direct flights to Anguilla from the US originate in Miami—which means an excuse to add a night or two to your holiday. Choose Hotel Beaux Arts in downtown Miami, which beckons with the best of both worlds: it’s located inside The JW Marriott Marquis Miami and thus comes with all the big-hotel benefits—including a massive entertainment complex, the Enliven Spa and even a Mariano Bartolome Golf School—but it’s really a 44-room boutique hotel-within-a-hotel, with its own 39th-floor lobby and restaurant, L’Aterlier, and chic rooms that evoke all the high-rolling style of Dubai.
